Day 7
Sunday October 12, 2008
Wangdiphodrang and Trongsa, Bhutan
Bhutan Temperature: Glorious but cooler in Trongsa
Yangquil Resort Trongsa
I got early this morning to write my diary. I was looking forward to a peaceful morning by heading to the lobby around 630am only to see the obnoxious loud ladies from the night before arrive and demand that the hotel open the business center immediately as they need to send an email. The night before, when I was showing pictures, one of them interrupts me and asks me if WiFi is available in a very loud voice. I gave her an emphatic NO!
6am in Wangdiphodrong: You can see the moon!
Since they were so loud in the morning, I continued my diary in the restaurant where I was joined by Margot and later by Caryn recovered from her cold but is hurting due to back problems.
After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and met up with Kunzang and Chencho who were also staying at the hotel. Apparently there are special rooms for guides. Our day was to begin by visiting the Wangdi Dzong. Legend has it that the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal met a boy named Wangdi playing by the river and was so moved so named it Wangdi. Right before the entrance of Wangdi is a shanty town of old stores. The government has decided to move the town so the residents are in process of waiting and packing. The Dzong is unique in that it is the only Dzong with a wooden roof. The monk of the Dzong decided to stick with tradition and keep the wooden roof. Also, it’s the first Dzong I’ve been too that had chicken running around! It was an old Dzong and therefore was very charming.
View of Wangdi Dzong
The happy chickens of the Wangdi Dzong
We also were very lucky as the Dzong was getting ready for a visit by the 5th king. The caretaker monk saw us and invited us to see the room where the King will be greeted. To our surprise they had on display statues of all the deities from 1000s of years ago. It is normally kept in a safe but for this special occasion it was taken out. Afterwards, the caretaker gave us a blessing and asked us to wish something to the statues. Only time will tell if the wish comes true!
Entrance to Wangdi Dzong
Details of the Wooden Roof
The entrance to a holy place for the deity of Wangdi. Only local men are allowed in as anyone else will upset the deity.
After the visit we started the long drive to Trongsa. On the way we will pass the Pelela at 3300 meters. Kunzang told us that the Divine Madman never went East as the first town he went to had the word fear attached to it and so did the second and the third. He said he will not pass the third fear so did not go East. I sat on the front seat this time where I got a birds eye view of the windy single lane and only highway to go west to east of Bhutan. Kunzang said that many people say Bhutan is the Switzerland of Asia. I have to agree by looking at the mountains but definitely a completely different culture.
Chencho our driver doing what he loves!
We stopped at a teahouse for a break and got a magnificent view of some of the mighty peaks for the Himalayas. We got a great view of Tiger Mountain. While having tea in the brisk but comfortable air we were greeted by two dogs. One with good manners and another who was aggressive. We fed them a few biscuits and they seemed to be happy. We also met a woman from Barrow, Alaska. She is an Xray technician from a hospital in Barrow which specializes in treating the eskimos. She and two doctors quit their jobs and decided to travel around the world for one year. She was very nice but did say one year is not enough. There is so much to see on our planet!
Waterfall we saw on the way to Trongsa
Tiger Mountain from PeleLa
The tea house at PeleLA
After a tea break we continued our journey. On our way, all of a sudden we see a monkey all three girls scream “oh A MONKEY!” We saw a monkey cross the highway! Chencho continued to drive us through the windy road which did not have a single straight stretch and then all of sudden we see many prayer flags. We are now at PeleLa and are greeted by two cute kids with red cheeks. You can tell from the villages we passed along the way and seeing the two kids that life is tough for people in this part of Bhutan and they are probably living in harsh conditions. What is amazing is that everyone looked well nourished and have full lives despite the conditions.
Our first Monkey Sighting – the Grey Langor
After the Pelela we descended down into the valley where we saw the first “fear village”- Rukubkji. Kunzang pointed out the location of the temple. Usually the temple is located above the town, but in this case it isn’t. Legend has it that a giant evil snake came through the town and the Divine Madman chopped his head off which is where the temple is not located. We continued our drive and even passed by a small waterfall which is holy water. It is said if one drinks this holy water they will have a good singing voice. So the town is known for their singing.
The first fear city: Rikubji. We drove by the second and third Chendebji and Tangsibji. Ji means fear.
Chencho keeping an eye on us during a break
We ran into cows, horses and dogs during the drive on the only highway that connects Western and Eastern Bhutan. There are no tunnels so the road curves around the mountains. There were some scary drops as the lane is only wide enough for 1.5 vehicles
After about 6 hours on the road, we finally got a view of our next town Trongsa and what a magnificent view it was. The Dzong was perched high on a cliff surrounded by lush green. Kunzang said that the old way to get to the Dzong is to hike down the cliff and then back up but there are a lot of snakes in the lush forest! He also pointed out the hotel. Lemo was able to get us in the most luxurious hotel in town the Yanquil Resort. She is really taking care of us.
View of the Trongsa Dzong
We then headed to our hotel where our rooms faced the Dzong. It was a very tranquil and beautiful hotel.
After a rest, we met up with Kunzong and Chencho around 630pm to chat. Kunzong shared wine with us but Chencho did not and we had a relaxing time chatting about astrology, the royal family and the history of Bhutan.
Our Hotel
During dinner I couldn’t help but notice everyone was Caucasian (I was the only Eurasian). I did feel kind of weird like in a time warp where I was in colonial Vietnam or Hong Kong for that matter. It was a weird feeling but at least I know my monies are going to the Bhutanese and not to colonialists! We had another early night so that we could get up early and enjoy beautiful and tranquil Trongsa.