Day 9
Tuesday October 14, 2008
Trongsa and Bumthang, Bhutan
Bhutan Temperature: Glorious but cool and crisp
Samden Guest House
Getting up was a bit tough for me. For some reason I had a headache and just wanted to stay in bed, but the day beckoned and I got myself out and got ready for the day. I felt instantly better when I walked outside to a glorious cool and crisp day. It was nippy enough that I finally took out my puff jacket and wore it to breakfast. There I met Margot where we had challenges getting our strong tea. But after several polite requests we finally got it. Caryn came by about 20 minutes later and we all had breakfast. They served buckwheat pancakes! I’m not a pancake fan so took a bite of Caryn’s and concluded it’s a savory pancake that will go better with chilies or even some veggies.
After breakfast, I got to work on my origami, where I made more tsurus (cranes) to give out to people. Then Margot knocked on our door saying we need an earlier start as our plans have changed. We are going to the town festival for the full moon in the morning and then have a lunch picnic instead! How exciting. So we quickly got ready and I gave a origami crane to Chencho and to Kunzang who says he knows how to make it! Apparently he learned to make it from a friend.
The drive to the Thangbi temple where the festival was being held was a short but very bumpy ride as the road was not paved. Chencho safely got us there and first thing we notice are the stalls for shopping! I was shopped out and so was Margot so we decided to go to the temple so that we could get good seats. The courtyard to the temple was cozy! We sat on the floor and Kunzang brought us a mat so that we can enjoy the first part of the show which were again a show by the clowns carrying phalli and asking us for donations. I have to say I was impressed with their show! Every time they got a donation they jumped 3 feet or so. Then an announcement came up and it was time for the bonfire. We went to where two huge haystacks were set up. First we saw an amazing dance around the two haystacks for about 20 minutes. Then it was time to light the fire. Then all of a sudden, people were running around. I thought they were running from the fire but NO! they were running between the two haystacks that are on fire! Apparently, by running between the haystacks absolves you of all your sins. We were too chicken but Chencho did it! It was an amazing site as kids ran between the burning haystacks and so did fathers and mothers carrying their child! Police were on hand to help people who fell and boy did some of them trip, it was scary!
The Clowns were Amazing and Naughty!
There is an elaborate dance first and then the two haystacks are lit and people run between them while the monks play very somber and powerful music
After the bonfire it was time to go back to the temple to see the rest of the show. The final dance was the Black Hat dance! It was magnificent. It was the same dance we saw at Thimphu but this time we saw the whole dance! Many Bhutanese families sat closely next to us to enjoy the show. Margot and I made friends with the families and Margot was having a great time with two little girls who were helping her write her diary. The family sitting next to me shared their food with me and I had a good time. After the dance, there was a more modern dance and we decided to go and meet Kunzang as it was close to noon or meeting time. Margot though lost her room key so we tried to get the mat but people were not moving and she couldn’t find it. We ran into Kunzang who asked us about the mat and rushed back to the courtyard to get it. We apologized and told him we tried but could not get people to move. In typical Kunzang fashion he was very polite and thanked us for trying.
The Best Views of the Tsechu
The Black Hat Dance
Margot's New Friends
Her family shared snacks and drinks with me.
We were then off to our picnic! When we got there we saw the Japanese ladies again! Our guest house owners arranged for a fantastic picnic where everything was set up and it was a vegetarian buffet lunch of rice, mushrooms, wild spinach, eggplant and our favorite chile cheese . We had some issues with the bathroom as there was no good area to do our business in private so we decided to all go together find a somewhat shielded place and while one person is doing her business two of us will stand guard. After we did our business we enjoyed our wonderful lunch. I then decided I had to take a picture with the Japanese ladies to show my colleagues in IBM Japan. It was quite a sight as we lined up Japanese style to take the photos.
Cute girl who wanted her picture taken with her mom's jewelry
After lunch it was time for our next adventure which was a visit to the Burning Lake and then to Bumthang’s first nunnery.
The Burning Lake is where Pema Limpa had to prove to people he was the treasure hunter for Guru Rimpoche’s relics. He took a butter lamp, dived into the lake, retrieved a statue and scriptures and came out of the lake with the burning butter lamp. Today, people use the spot to meditate and also light a butter lamp on a wooden block and let it float in the lake. They say if it turns clockwise 3 times your wishes will come true.
It was about a 30 minute drive from the temple to the burning lake. Once we got to the parking lot it was about a 5 minute walk to a rock overlooking the lake. It was a bit exposed but not so much that it bothered me. It bothered my knee though! The place was very serene and we saw a person meditate so thought it best we leave, but just as we were leaving we saw a bus load of European tourists arrive so unfortunately I believe the poor guy will not be able to meditate in peace!
Kunzang at Burning Lake. The lake was dark so the photos did not turn out well.
Our next stop was Bumthang’s first nunnery. But before we took off there was a bit of an argument between Chencho and Kunzang and we found out that Chencho didn’t believe there was a road and Kunzang disagreed. Kunzang won! So off we were on our Toyota van to the nunnery.
This nunnery is sponsored by the reincarnation of Pema Limpa and he resides in Gangtey, which we will visit later. Bhutan is trying to encourage more women to serve Buddhism so is creating more nunneries. This nunnery started in Gangtey and moved to Bumthang as the first nunnery in Bumthang about 2 -3 years ago. The nunnery was still under construction and although there are about 100 nuns living there only 5 were present as everyone else was in Gangtey. We were greeted by a young and very sweet nun. She showed us around the yet to be finished nunnery and also invited us to her room which was decorated with posters of cats and animals and of course religious figures. I commented on her necklace that was made of knots and she generously gave all three of us the last three knot necklaces that she made. The whole environment was very welcoming as there were plants everywhere. We also learned that the nuns make a pilgrimage to the top of a mountain facing the nunnery about 2-3 times per year to collect iron where Pema Limpa was a blacksmith and they use the iron to make necklaces as an amulet.
The nuns walk to the top of the valley. We were told it takes them 2 hours but for foreigners about 3-4 hours
Our new friend
When completed, it will be a beautiful nunnery. I hope they get electricity though. All the nuns participate in the building of the nunnery.
It was time to say goodbye but before we left we donated money for the nunnery as there still is a lot of work that needs to be done. We all donated 50dollars and received a picture book by a Danish woman on the nunnery as all proceeds go to the nunnery. Margot also made a donation but declined the book as her suitcase is small but got all the contact info for she is very interested in learning about their lifestyle and progress.
Our sweet guide Kunzang told us two very interesting stories on the ride to the nunnery. One was the reason why the women’s bathroom in a nunnery is located further away from the temple than a monks. Legend has it that when Guru Rimpoche had to battle a female demon, she had her period and blood dropped on earth and all this bad vegetation started to growing. Thus smoking is frowned upon in Bhutan. It is believed that smoking blinds Guru Rimpoche who is still fighting the demons in the other world. And therefore, women’s “waste” is bad luck.
On the way back to our guest house we stopped to take a photo of the great view of the Bumthang Dzong. We found a surprise though when getting out of the car. There was marijuana everywhere! Had to take a photo of that!
When we got back, I took pictures of the guest house and also spent some time with the woman who owns the place and her cute 3 year old son. I took photos of her and her son which she really really wants so I have to make sure that I send it to her. Once back in the room, we notice that we don’t have electricity! Apparently Bumthang is having a water shortage so no electricity for awhile. Fortunately, just before dinner time the electricity went back on so I could take a hot shower before dinner.
It was then time to meet Kunzang at 630pm but I ran into the two of the Japanese ladies again. They were a mother/daughter team and I found out that they are musicians for the Imperial Family. I had a nice conversation with them and we agreed to keep in touch in Tokyo and that they would invite me to their New Years concert and send me a CD!
It was then time for dinner where we started with shots of ara that Kunzong arranged that was really really good. It was wheat based and did not taste strong but after one shot we were buzzed! Kunzong also shared with us some documents he has on Tantric Buddhism which he said he will photocopy in Thimphu. He also agreed to set up a hot stone bath and betel nut QandA session with us in Paro our last nite (so sad!) After another shot of ara we were very chatty with Kunzang but I don’t remember much of the conversation except that Margot and I miss our dogs very much. After dinner we decided to call it another early nite ( 830pm)!
Our favorite Guest House
She's a worker at the Guest House and her husband is the bartender. They love their son and are trying to have one more child
It seems in Bhutan, men share equal responsibility in bringing up children as can be seen by this photo taken from the Teschu in Bumthang