Day 12
Friday October 17, 2008
Mongar and Trashigang, Bhutan
Bhutan Temperature: Glorious and hot and dry in Trashigang
Hotel: Druk Zhongkhar Hotel, Mongar
After a restless nice due to finishing 2 bottles of wine between me and Caryn, I got up very early at 430am to write my diary and get my photos together. I also enjoyed a beautiful view of the sunrise with the morning moon visible in clear skies. I was enjoying the peace and quiet while listening to the chickens and playing with the cats that belong to the hotel. Unfortunately around 6am the German speaking group came by and my peace and quiet disappeared with a snap of a finger. They crowded me in the dining room and really had no courtesy to even speak to me so I just kept to my business. The food at the hotel is excellent and breakfast is no exception. The chef made me an exceptional vegetable omelet with some chiles and the toast was sweet enough that I did not need butter.
I then went back to the room, made sure Caryn was up and packed. I met Caryn and Margot at the dining room after packing and joined in on a conversation with an elderly gentleman and his companion. They seem to be in their late 60s and we were not sure if they are married or were living together. Either way, they seemed to have a very good relationship. They are based out of Washington DC but they also have a pied de terre in Rome where the woman seems to spend a lot of time.
The lovely couple from Spain came in for breakfast where we continued our conversation and I gave them tips on where to go in Japan. We said our goodbyes as they are going to the border and journey to New Dehli to catch their flight back to Spain. We had an early start today 8am so went to the lobby to meet Kunzang and Chencho for our adventure for the day.
Sunrise in Trashigang
The day started where we visited Bhutan’s first university, the Sherubtse College. Originally, it was Bhutan’s first school founded by Father Mackay. Kunzang did not know where he was from but he introduced education to Bhutan. Later in 1978, it became the college what it is today. Kunzang left us alone to explore the campus. We weren’t sure why and Margot thought maybe the universities do not like guides. Anyhow, we read some poems the English students wrote which were very good and looked at everyone’s grades as they are published with names! We also explored the library and had the unfortunate experience of using the toilet and also explored the new alumni building which had modern toilet facilities which we should have used.
Shrerubtse College
After exploring the beautiful garden and the alumni gift shop that was stocked with gifts geared more for children than college students (maybe the Kawaii! phenomena is getting popular in Bhutan) we went back to the car to meet up with Kunzang. He then asked us if we wanted to visit the temple across from the college as it was having a celebration. We of course, said “SURE!”
The college had a beautiful garden
The name of the temple is called Zantho Pelri. It’s a pretty new temple but has a beautiful name. The name means the paradise of Guru Rimpoche. The temple was decorated as they were in day 2 of the Phurba celebration. We were first asked if we will be willing to make a donation which we did. I gave 50NG which is about one dollar and they seemed very very happy. They then asked us to sit down and enjoy a glass of juice which tasted like Tang. We all thought that if we had vanilla ice cream we could make a great milkshake and had a laugh. Then the head monk asked us if we wanted to meet a re-incarnated Rimpoche. We said yes but in my mind I had a lot of questions as Kunzang said he is a Rimpoche from Tibet. Also, I had no idea what the protocol is so was nervous about the whole situation. Then I thought since Margot is the journalist so I’m sure she’ll know how to ask questions.
We went into the room and Kunzang bowed in front of him and got a blessing. He sat at the end demurely and looked very nervous which is getting me nervous. The Rimpoche was very composed and looked regal with the smoothest skin. Margot started asking him questions and we found out he speaks perfect English because his English teacher was British and he is being groomed to travel the world. He also studied at the Tangu monastery which is where we hung our prayer flags! He even offers us tea which Margot and I find to be very “nutty” but later realize its flavored coffee! I have so many questions I want to ask like “ How is the Dalai Lama, can I take a photo” but because I’m unfamiliar with protocol it doesn’t come out of my mouth. I did realize we were struggling to end the conversation, so I did thank him for his time and that I hope to hear him speak in Tokyo or in the United States soon.
The Zantho Pelri Temple
The Temple was decorated to celebrate the deity Phurba
It was in this building we met the re-incarnated Rimpoche from Tibet
After we leave, the first thing Kunzang says is “Why didn’t you take a picture?” I explain I wasn’t sure if its OK and he seemed very disappointed! Anyhow, he kept rubbing me about it in fun during the day but said he will be visiting the monastery one more time in November and because the monks took a photo will ask him to see the photo. The name of the lama is “ Tohugsey Rimpoche”. I CANNOT BELIEVE I MET A REINCARNATED LAMA!” This was definitely the highlight of my trip.
We then toured the temple which was bustling with activity as it was the second day of the celebration. They were celebrating the deity Phurba which means dagger. We got a blessing at the temple and then headed to our next destination.
Our next destination required Chencho to drive a scary single lane but two way gravel road with no guard rail. Although once out of the city, the gravel road is 18km long it still takes over an hour to get to our destination. Our destination is an old temple called the Trametsi. On the way, I mention to Kunzang that I admire the workers and farmers who seem to have to carry huge loads for very long distances. He then proceeded to explain “Woola” which is a mandatory service for all villagers. It usually only lasts about a week but one person from each family has to donate time. Kunzang was usually picked by the family to do the family’s Woola duty. When he was 20 the village was building a drain, so for about a week for his Woola service he had to carry about 50kg of rocks, cement etc up a hill multiple times from 9-5pm!
The drive through the gravel road was indeed scary but the scenery was breathtaking. It did require a lot of concentration on Chencho’s part. After about an one hour on the road we finally arrived at our destination.
The road to Trametsi
Trametsi, (in the olden times is was called Bremetsi) was founded by Pema Limpa’s sister. Like all the temples we visited in Bhutan, this too was serene and at a beautiful location. HOWEVER, small problem as Margot and I had to go the bathroom badly. Well the store keeper said the outhouse is available but said that we will not like it so there is no bathroom. But when you have to go you have to go and there was also a huge pine tree blocking the door. Anyhow, we couldn’t get the door open so walked to the back of the temple. We couldn’t find a good spot but after desperation, found a drain which would work as a bathroom. Margot went first as I kept an eye our for the monks. Then it was my time, but Margot and Caryn told me to hurry as a few monks were coming. That was the most high pressure pee I’ve ever had! Of course, after we finished our business we realized we might have “soiled” the place as women’s waste is considered bad so the women’s toilet needs to be very far from the monastery
Anyhow, we got our business done and can now focus on the temple. The temple was rather big but special as it had the most beautiful statue of Green Tara surrounded by 1000s Buddha’s . There was also a weapons room with the carcasses of animals. The caretaker said that the animals came to the temple to die so they are keeping them. There was a snake, an extinct small tiger and flying squirrels. There was also the most exquisite small statue of the Goddess of Longevity in an ornate glass box. However, the highlight was the stupa where the founder’s body is kept and she is in meditation position.
We went to another temple within the compound which was an “in your face” experience for me on Tantric Buddhism. For the first time, we were able to get into a holy place because the deity of this place is not as sensitive. We could not get into other holy places as we were female and not Bhutanese. The Gods were scary looking. There were two Gods. The main God had the king and queen to each of his sides. There was also a God for the archers. We had the opportunity to roll dice and get our fortune told. I again wished for long and healthy life for Skipper, Yuki, Kim, Bill, BB and Jackson. I threw the dice and got the number of the deity of the queen so have no need to get my fortune read as everything is good! Caryn got the same but Margot had to get hers read by a very old book. Basically, she needed to hang a prayer flag of longevity and also the monk offered to pray for her. She gave him 500NG which we found out later that Kunzang was shocked about as it was a lot of money! We had a good laugh about that. We also saw a traditional drum but this was unique because it had a statue of an old man holding the drum. We asked about it and the monks made the statue to honor the old man who loved playing the drum. We also saw a room where all the beautiful black hats for the black hat dance was displayed.
Trametsi Courtyard
View of the mountains from Trametsi
The Monks shoes
The entrance to Trametsi
More proof on how strong the Bhutanese are: This woman was carrying this load up the hill by Trametsi
After the tour since it was 1pm, we took a short drive down the scary road to a perfect picnic spot where we had a view of the valley and saw an interesting bird soar thru the sky . Two monks followed them and we were all left wondering what kind of bird it is as the belly was white and it seemed big.
At lunch Kunzang told us when/where people do celebrations. Basically, if the temple gets a sponsor they do the celebrations. In the case of the Phurba celebration, the King sponsored the fete. They also do celebrations on auspicious days.
The two monks of Trametsi at our picnic spot
It was then time to continue our 70km ride back to Mongar where Kunzang got silly and told us jokes which was cute but we didn’t get it!
We made it to our hotel safely thanks to Chencho and this time we were our the hotel we were to stay in originally. I took a good hot shower and washed some clothes and Caryn and I met up with Margot and Kunzang for dinner. After we chatted a bit with Kunzang it was time for dinner. I was exhausted due to the lack of sleep because of the two bottles of wine. No wine for me tonite!
The Road Back to Mongar