Day 17: Travels to a Himalayan Kingdom – Bhutan

Day 17
Wednesday October 22,  2008
Thimphu and  back to Paro,  Bhutan
 Bhutan Temperature:  Glorious with clear skies
Hotel: Gangtey Palace

I woke up early to another glorious but crisp day.  After the usual breakfast of toast (which at the Druk is drama as the toaster is never working properly), roasted tomato and boiled egg, Margot , Caryn and I chatted about our day.  A lady and her husband sitting next to us was listening then started asking us questions.  They booked their trip in the US and made the decision to go to Bhutan only 6 weeks ago!  We told them that we went through a local agency and I explained how I did it.  They’ve traveled the world and just last year went to Burma and Tibet and loved it.  Because they booked everything last minute they did not get great hotels and were very interested in how I arranged the trip.  I also told them about the Trans Siberian experience which they were very interested in and when I mentioned I was thinking of going to Mongolia next year they wanted to come with me!  I gave them email address and expect to hear back from them.  I’m very curious about learning about them because I don’t know of anyone who made a last minute decision to go to Bhutan!

We met Kunzang at 9am and our first stop was Bhutan Post Office.  Margot and I were not interested in stamps but since Caryn had to buy some for her friends, we went in with her which turned into a good thing.  Margot was able to exchange money and I ended up buying two postcards to send to BB and Jackson with 3D stamps of the Apollo project! I hope they like it!

After the postal office, we went to the painting school.  Margot and I enjoyed visiting the classes and seeing the students work, especially in the metal casting and sculpture class.  I didn’t realize all the boxes and jewelry was made by hand!  All the sculptures are also made by hand.  Caryn's priority was shopping so sped thru the  school and went straight to the shop.  We met up with her later where she bought a green Tara painting and Margot was able to get a small painting of the 4 friends and some pendants.

Drawing and Woodcarving:  Because all art is religious, all work is designed to exact specifications as dictated by the monks

Jewelry Making

Sculpting class.  The work was intricate.

Doll Making:  This is a new "art" created for the tourist industry

After the painting school, we went to the top of a hill where we got a good view of Thimphu.  There were may prayer flags.  Apparently, all the students hoist prayer flags during test time so they can pass.  Some of the prayer flags were lying on the ground and Kunzang said that it not good to have them laying on the ground and that people who pass it should fix it.  So Kunzang, Margot and I fixed the prayer flags .  We had a great view of Thimphu from the top and I couldn’t help but think how it would look 10 years from now. 

The road to the top of the hill

View of Thimphu from the top of the hill

After the nice walk it was time to go see the Takin.  Legend has it that the Divine Madman was challenged to show magic so he asked for a whole cow and whole goat for him to eat.  After he finished eating both of them with only bones left, he did his magic and a Takin appeared.   According the WWF, even scientist are baffled on how to classify the species so they have there own classification.  The reserve is quite beautiful.  It used to be a zoo but after housing a few animals, the people felt guilty so let them all go to the wild.  However, the Takins decided to stay and started to roam the city,  the people then decided to convert the zoo to a Takin preservation park as they are endangered.  We saw a beautiful and curious Takin and two Takins napping.  They are quite strange creatures but seem gentle although Kunzang said they can attack.  In addition to the Takins we saw deer.  They all seemed to be enjoying their life in the reserve.

Takin

After the Takin experience, we went to Jampa – Lemo’s restaurant and our favorite- for lunch.  As usual, we had phenomenal nan, dal and great curries and this time a mushroom hemadatse.    After another filling lunch it was time to head to Paro.

It was sad to leave Thimphu but right after we went through gate of Thimphu, we were back in the countryside and to dry winds and Southern California weather.  It still was quite a weird scene to see cows walking the new two lane highway.  We stopped at the confluence of the Paro and Thimphu river and took photos of the 3 different type of stupas lined up together: Nepalese, Tibetan and Bhutanese for a break.

The three different styles of Stupas (chortens): from left to right -Tibetan, Nepalese, Bhutanese

We then drove a bit more until we saw a pretty temple across from the Paro river in a small oasis surrounded by arid terrain.  It was the “Excellent Horse” or Takchogung Temple which was built by the iron bridge man (Chagzampa)who built iron bridges throughout Bhutan before iron was even available.  It is a private temple as the descendants of the iron bridge man own it.  Therefore, tourists are not allowed in the temple but locals can worship there anytime.  We did however, cross the bridge that the iron bridge man built.  It has been reinforced but the original chain is still intact.  I was scared to cross it first as the floor of the bridge looked like it was made of bamboo.  However, Kunzang pointed out that the floor was reinforced with a chain mesh so we followed Kunzang and walked across the bridge.  The temple was located in a beautiful spot where rice grew and also had a mysterious cave.  We were not allowed to venture there so admired it from afar.  We also saw which seemed like 100s of chile peppers drying freely in the sun.  Kunzang said that there is a deity that protects the temple and if someone steals even 1 chile pepper they will get sick.  However, if they return it they will heal, in not, they will die!

The "Excellent Horse"  Temple

The Iron Bridge

The original iron chain links. 

We continued the beautiful drive to Paro and knew we were close when we saw the rice paddies that have been harvested since we left.   Somehow rice paddies are very calming to me.  Then we  were on a familiar road alongside the Paro river lined with beautiful oak trees and we were in Paro!  After stopping to get our airline tickets confirmed, we then headed to our next destination, the Kichu Temple.

The Kichu temple is one of the two oldest temples in Bhutan and is located on one of the 108 joints of the demon.  The other in Bhutan was Janpe which we liked very much.  Again, like Janpe there were many senior citizens with their prayer wheels walking around the temple praying to be reborn during the time of the next Buddha.  It was a beautiful and serene temple with a tangerine tree in the courtyard!  Apparently, tangerines do not grow at the altitude of Paro but this one does.  And it is said that if one sits underneath it and the tangerine falls and hits you, you are blessed forever!  We first went into the original temple which was exquisite.  It had the original paintings from the 7th century which were remarkably kept intact.  Behind the altar was a protective alcove with a beautiful and very old statue of the Buddha and his disciples.  It was exquisite.  Also on the floor on the temple in front of the altar were precious stones like coral, turquoise and our first Zi!   After getting a blessing from the caretaker, we went to the newer temple that the Queen Mother built which was also beautiful but with a huge statue of Guru Rimpoche.  I left the temple with mixed feelings, serene while seeing the cedar tree and prayer flags blow in the wind, but sad as I know I’ll be leaving  Bhutan tomorrow and not sure when I’ll be back. 

An old cypress tree at Kichu

The courtyard at Kichu

The infamous tangerine tree

Entrance to the old temple

Chain Link built by the Iron Bridge Man

View of the Kichu

Stones by the Chorten in Kichu

After the visit, we went into town where we went to pick up my Tara Thangka.   We went to the tailor and there she was hanging on a wall and all covered up.  When they uncovered the Thangka we all gasped as it was beautiful!   The tailor did a phenomenal job.  I’ve never been so happy and thankful.  The tailor who is an old man and walks with a gimp seemed very happy to see my expression.  I’m going to treasure my Thangka forever!  Kunzang asked him to make a special case and he did!

We did some more window shopping after picking up the Thangka as Caryn was still in need of using up her NG.  I did find the postcard I wanted though and it was a postcard of the different phalli of Guru Rimpoche.  I was embarrassed to but it at the post office because Kunzang was behind me the whole time so this time I bought it in front of 2 young German or Swiss tourists!

Afterwards we went to our hotel which is the Gangtey Palace and that’s the same hotel where we spent our first night.   I’m here to enjoy my last day and am nervous about getting ready for my first hot stone bath!  Our rooms were magnificent!  Margot’s was the honeymoon suite!  I took a shower, put on my bathing suit (or swim costume as they call it in Bhutan) and got ready for my first hot stone bath.  At about 20minutes to 6pm, 2 ladies came up to the room to provide me with a bathrobe.  I asked if I need to wear a swim costume or not and they said it was up to me.  They said there is one man who heats the hot stones but no one else.  I choose to wear my “swim costume”.   I put on my robe and totally feel naked walking through the courtyard where several people are staring at me.  I pretend I’m European and walk boldly to the wooden building which houses 5 hot stone baths.  Inside is a quiet, clean, simple yet beautiful bathing area.  There is one bath ready for me.  The hot stone bath man asks me if the water is OK and I stick my hand and find it hot but about the same temperature as an onsen in Japan.  For a second, I consider going in naked but to play it safe, keep my bathing suit on.    I step into the  wooden bath which has a separate compartment for the hot stones.  The water is heavenly and I notice that fresh pine branches are in the water.  The smell of  wood with the hot water melts any tension and relieves the knee pain I’ve had throughout the trip.  I’m in heaven!  The roof of the hot stone bath is open and I see the sky turn from dusk to night.  Originally, I thought I’d only last 5 minutes, but I don’t want to leave.  The hot stone man then comes in and asks if I want more stones.  I say yes, and he is surprised as most Americans only last about 5 minutes.   He asks if I want one or two and I ask for one.  He comes back with this red hot stone with these huge tongs and swishes in the hot water contained in the stone compartment.  The water sizzles and all of a sudden I feel the heat in my section and the water starts steaming.  It is hot but very relaxing.  I spend another 15 minutes in the tub feeling my muscles turn to butter while mesmerized by the beautiful night sky of Paro.

I reluctantly get out of the bath as we have our last dinner tonite.  I am so relaxed and chilled out that I don’t care about anything.  I will myself to get dressed and tell Margot and Caryn I’ll meet them in the bar.  While paying for my hot stone bath, I ran into Kunzang and Chencho so we went to the bar together as we were having our last slide show presentation.  Margot came shortly later and after waiting for Caryn for more than 20 minutes, we decided to start it. Caryn showed up in the middle and after the slideshow we got back in the car and at the first restaurant we ever went to in Bhutan.  We had another feast although the corn soup was basically water with corn flavoring.  Kunzang also ordered eze and the riverweed soup.  I said it tasted just like seaweed and we found out it was seaweed!!    We were to try Betel Nut after dinner but we all chickened out, including me as Kunzang said it will give me diarrhea. We went back to the hotel and of course, I forgot to show Chencho my thankgka and left it in the car! 

I go to bed at around 9pm looking forward to getting back to the dogs but melancholic about leaving Bhutan.

Our Last View of Kichu