Samcheok – Where Only Adventurous Foreigners Go

Warning:  The following entry is rated "R"
Saturday May 1, 2009
Around Samcheok
Sunny and Mild temperatures

Day 2

Eunice and I got up around 7am after a good night's sleep to get ready for our trip to Samcheok.  Travelling with us are Eunice's BFF's  daughter and her boyfriend (J and Neo).  Neo, her boyfriend, offered to be the driver in his brand new fancy SUV which both Eunice and I were very grateful.  The deal was they would coordinate the trip and drive  and  Eunice and I will pay for gas, room and board.  Good deal as Eunice and I had alot of catching up to do!  They came sharply at 730am but we were running a bit late so met them downstairs around 8am.  Neo and J have been dating for a bit over a year.  They are so much in love and make a cute couple.   They have been through some tough times due to J getting very sick (life threatening) but their relationship persevered and it was so nice to be around a very positive, loving and life appreciating couple.

So where is Samcheok?  Samcheok is a town on the East Coast of Korea.  Samcheok is known for its cement factories but outside the town are gorgeous beaches.  However, our objective was to go off the beaten track and visit areas that few foreigners have ever gone.  Eunice made arrangements for us to spend a nite in an inn there so we could take a leisurely drive toward the area and do some siteseeing and spend the next day touring our main objective which is the Hwanseon Donggul which is one of Asia's largest caves.

Neo and J picking us up.  They are SO adorable!  Yes, its young love, but I have a very good feeling about this!

 

After about 2 hours on the road with TRAFFIC due to the holiday we decided to stop at a rest area.  I was very excited as I have never stopped at a Korean rest area.  Well, its just like the rest areas in the States but with tons of excited people.  The atmosphere was electrifying.  Some people who visit Korea say "its just like Japan".  I totally disagree.  Koreans are boisterous and loud, more like New Yorkers!

On the way we stopped at a rest area.  My first rest area stop in Korea.  They were selling steamed bread which is a specialty.

Since it was a big holiday weekend in Korea, there was a special stand at the rest area selling traditional Korean snacks.
 

The rest area was bustling with people and very crowded and alive.  Unlike Japan, things were chaotic and spontaneous.  Very much like NYC and ALIVE!  Alot of fun to watch.
 

Our first stop was Samyang Ranch which was on the way to Samcheok.  Its been heavily advertised as a "must see" destination as its the largest ranch in Asia and the location is used for many South Korean dramas and movies.  Eunice, J and Neo concluded after the visit it was a rip off.  I thought it was OK because seeing this side of Korea was new to me.

 

We took a bus to the top of the mountain where one is supposed to see the view of the East Sea ( Sea of Japan to the Japanese).  It was hazy so we did not get a view.  The hilites though were the windmills as they appeared in many Korean TV dramas.

To me, the hilite of the visit was to see an authentic bomb shelter.  Hard to believe this is to protect against bombs from North Korea but that's what this is!

Although the visit was a disappointment as we found out it was not a "working" ranch but a tourist trap, at least we came at the right time so we did not have to wait in line to catch the bus.
 

After the visit to the ranch, it was time for lunch.  The area we were in is called Dragon Valley as is famous in Korea for skiing.  Its located in a town called Pyeoungchang and is bidding to host the 2018 Olympics.  It narrowly lost the 2010 Olympics to Vancouver by 56 votes to 53.  The town is also famous for a restaurant called Wangtei Hwegan which is a dried pollack fish restaurant.  We decided to go there for lunch.  I like dried fish but only have had it Japanese and Italian style.  This was my first experience to have it Korean style and loved it.  

First came our appetizers which were fresh and delicious!

 

Then came our main course.  We were so excited that I forgot to take a picture before we dug in.  To the left on foil is the dried pollack grilled in spicy sauce.  To the left is stewed dried pollack with beef and vegetables
 

The restaurant also had quite a selection of pickl
ed plums and ginseng

After a very filling lunch, it was time to continue our journey to our next stop Ojukheon which is located in a small town called Gangneung.  Ojukheon is a beautiful and expansive complex that is famous for black stemmed bamboo groves.  Sim Saimdang (1504-1551) was born here.  She is regarded as the perfect daughter, wife and mother, and was also an accomplished poet and artist.  Her son was an outstanding Confucian philosopher and scholar.  Legend had it that he learned to read at 3 years old and served in various government posts.  One of his claims to fame is that he advised the government to raise an army of 100,000 to prepare against invasion by Japan, but was ignored with disastrous consequences in 1592, 8 years after his death.  His name was Yi Yulgok.

Yi Yulgok.  He is also depicted on the 50000Won bill
 

The gardens were beautiful and were dotted with brown maple trees

 

The famous black bamboo.  They are much smaller and thinner than green bamboo but have the same cooling and calming effect.

 

The complex also had replicas of the house they lived in.  Traditional Korean houses have heated floors using the Ondol system. The Ondol system transfer heat from wood smoke from the kitchen or stove to heat the floors.  Its still used today in many traditional homes, inns and restaurants.  Below is where the heat is passed through.

A traditional Korean room

A traditional old style kitchen

Kimchee pots in a field of azaleas

School children in front of the statue of Sin Siamdang

The traditional Korean female and male totem pole that protects the compound. 

The compound also displays some of the national treasures of Korea.  The museum displays the original art work of Sin Saimdang and is definitely worth seeing.

The view of the house

After we spent about an hour or so in Ojukheon, we then continued our drive toward Samcheok.  Neo took us through the scenic route along the East Sea (Sea of Japan to the Japanese).  Since I've never seen the East Sea, we stopped to enjoy the scenery.

 

We then arrived at our last stop for the day – Haesindang Gong-Wan Park (ie, Penis Park).  Its one of the top 10 things to do in Korea according to the Lonely Planet Guide.  However, none of the Koreans I knew including Neo and J have ever heard of it!  Eunice was skeptical about it while planning our trip as none of her friends have heard of it and asked the inn owner about the park when making reservations.  Well, first, he was surprised she knew about it and said that it is an interesting and very important park for the villagers. 

So here's the story:  The park is in a small fishing village called Sinnam.  If you are familiar with Korean history and culture, Shamanism, has played a very important role in shaping Korea.  So I thought the story would have something to do with Buddhism as phallic symbols are prevalent in Buddhism but found out it had to do with Shamanism.  Sinnam legend has it that a young virgin woman drowned within sight of her boyfriend on a small rocky island offshore.  The boy tried to save her but could not due to the rough seas.  Shortly after her death, all the f
ish disappeared.  Then one day when all hope seemed lost, a man had to take a leak and did so in the sea.  Then magically the fish appeared again.  So the villagers believe that the sight of the man's private part satisfied the young frustrated now a ghost virgin.  So the villages "erected" statues of penises at the most beautiful part of the town and now the town always gets an abundant catch of fish. 

The park is indeed located on a gorgeous piece of property.  It is tastefully done and is lovely but we did have a few laughs!

The entrance to the park

The view from the park. J and Neo admiring the view.

Eunice staring out to sea under the lilac canopy

A breathtaking view

Some of the statues in the park.  They are all hand carved.

 

The bronze statues.  They all face the East Sea where she was lost

More statues hard carved in wood

The chinese zodiac signs

Statues of Korean fishermen doing their thing to appease the ghost.  Not sure why there are 2 dogs behind them..

Wishing stones were everywhere.  Koreans believe by making a pagoda of stones, their wishes will come true.

Statue of the Virgin Girl

They also have a statue of her on the rocks were she drowned.   The seas here are rough so it must be very difficult to get it there and bolt it to the rock.

Just beautiful.  I love the water and realized how much I miss it. 

After a long day and a long drive for Neo, it was time to head to our inn.  We thought it would be close to the park but it turned out to be in the mountains and about a 40 minute drive.  It was pitch black by the time we arrived which was around 8pm.  We then got a little concerned because we were in the middle of nowhere and there was no place to eat dinner!  We checked in the inn to our cute rooms but really could not see what was around us because there was no light except for one light in our room.  The owner of the inn gave us directions on where to eat and told us to hurry as all places close at 9pm.  So off we were to find the recommended best "seafood" place in Korea.  The owner of the place told us it will take 10 minutes but 40 minutes later we were at the place and it was closed!  So we thought we had to buy instant noodles but fortunately we found a family owned place that was closing up but agreed to keep it open for us.  We had the freshest Korean style sashimi and a fish stew in a spicy broth.  Eunice called it Korean style Bouillabaise.  Both were a first for me and I liked it!

The family restaurant that stayed open for us.

Korean style sashimi.  You eat wrapped in lettuce with spicy sauce.  One can add garlic cloves and onions too for flavoring.

Korean style SPICY bouillabaise.  The stock is made from the fish bones and head from the fish used for sashimi.

After we stuffed ourselves, it was time to head back and call it a night.  Eunice thought she would have trouble falling asleep but both of us had NO PROBLEMS and were in a deep sleep as soon as we hit the sack.