Wednesday May 6, 2009
Seoul, the capital of South Korea
HOT!!
I woke up early to take the 638am KTX (Korean bullet train) back to Seoul. Again, I went first class as the price difference between economy was not that much. The train was pretty packed as it was the end of the long weekend holiday and many business men sitting in my car. It was a very comfortable and smooth ride though… so smooth that I slept through most of the trip.
One of the things I miss from California is the Chai Latte from Coffee Bean. So you can imagine my surprise when I saw it at Dongdaegu station and then at Seoul station! Its everywhere in Korea (well at least in the big cities). I wonder why one does not exist in Tokyo!!??
Once I arrived at Seoul station, I got in a taxi and was at Eunice's place by 830am or so. Eunice did not leave for work yet as her back was bothering her. So we decided that I will go with her to her office as its in central Seoul and do my own sightseeing and meet up at her office to go to dinner around 630pm or so.
My first stop was to have Coffee Bean Chai Latte (no sugar added and with soy). Tasted just like the Malibu Coffee Bean! Then it was off to checking out the duty free shops at Lotte Department store. Since this was the main department store the duty free shops were on 2 floors! I had to remind myself I was in Korea as all I could hear was Japanese - and I mean bus loads! Packed with Japanese tourists shopping. What's interesting is that the usually reserved Japanese were getting pretty loud and aggressive when it came to duty free shopping in Korea. I actually got irritated at 2 middle age ladies because while I was trying out some Tod's flats, they took the shoes that I haven't tried yet! Shopping was actually a tiring experience as it was packed so only bought a pair of Tod's flats, some Korean sweets as presents and Korean BB miracle cream which is supposed to de-age me by 10 years (we'll see!) After an early lunch at Lotte, I decided to walk to Chang Deok Gung – an ancient palace – to catch the 130pm English tour.
The Coffee Bean at Daegu Station. It was closed at Daegu because it was so early but went to one in Seoul!
Changdeokgung Palace was built as a secondary palace in 1405, under King Taejung during the Chosun dynasty. Although it was the secondary palace to the Gyeongokgung palace, it served as the residence for many kings and later became the main palace. After both palaces were destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592, only Changdeokgung was rebuilt because it was thought that the site of Gyeongbokgung was no longer auspicious. (However, in 1868, Gyeongbokgung was rebuilt by another King).
Changdeokgung is laid out in harmony with the area's topography. Although it fell victim to the Japanese Occupation and was left to decay after WWII, major restoration work started in 1991 and now its a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The main gate to Changdeokgung
Geumcheongyo, the oldest structure in the palace. Its a bridge that leads to the main palace compound. There used to be a drum here so that anyone who had a grievance can file a petition by striking the drum. The system didn't work well though due to the complex process of getting to that point.
Jinseonmun Gate: Entrance to the main compound
View of the compound from Injeongjeon which is the throne hall of Chandeokgung
Old and New
The throne
Seonjeongjeon: The King's administrative office. Its the only building with a blue tiled roof so that everyone knows it the King's office.
Korea's version of gargoyles
The highlight of the visit though is the Secret Garden. The garden is hidden as its in the back of the palace. And its a big garden. The garden is unique in that it is adapted to the topography and contains a garden in every gully. Unlike Japanese gardens which contain exquisite landscaping, the Secret Garden focuses on the natural setting so has kept landscaping to the minimum. Most gardens around the world are meant to be seen and enjoyed by admiring panoramic views, at the Secret Garden one is meant to feel its beauty by experiencing climbs through the gullies and over the ridges.
The Gate for Long Life
Changdeokgung can only be visited by a guided tour. This is great as it eliminates crowds and makes one appreciate the palace and the garden even more.
After the 90 minute tour, I decided to head to Insadong. Insadong is a small neighborhood filled with antique shops and tea shops. I've been there before and bought some beautiful Korean celadon pottery and have always enjoyed walking through the confusing mishmap of back alleys. However, this time I was surprised how developed it became and many of the pottery shops I used to go to are gone! Instead were Korean designer shops and art galleries. It had a SOHO feel to it. After walking around Insadong for about an hour or so it was time to meet Eunice for dinner with her son Derrick. We went to a fabulous home style cooking place which I would have never found and was filled with locals. I even tried Korean Makgeolli or dongdongju which is a traditional brew made from unrefined, fermented rice wine that has a cloudy appearance and a sweet yogurt like taste. It has much lower alcohol content (about 3%) and is served in a kettle and poured into small bowls. What a great way to end a fun and full day!
Back Alley of Insadong
View from a tea shop I stopped at in Insadong
Delicious cold tea I had in Insadong. It was quince and honey tea.
At night Eunice and her son Derick took me to his favorite home style cooking restaurant. Here I'm having Dongdongju. Ganbei! (Cheers!)
The home style meal we had. It was delicious! Don't think I can find this type of Korean food in Japan or the US.
For my last nite, I went to Insadong again. Eunice's friend Stella took me to one of the top 10 restaurants in Asia called Sanchon. Basically it offers Zen Buddhist temple food. It is owned by a Buddhist monk. The food was fantastic. Unlike Japanese Zen food, its coarser but you really taste the vegetables. The food is served in traditional bowls made from the wood of the zelkova tree. Even the chopsticks and spoons are made from this wood.
The dinner included a traditional Korean art performance.