Xi’an: Where it all started

November 23, 2014

Xi'an, China

Rainy and Chilly

I got up at 430am yesterday to get ready to take my early AM flight to Xi'an which is one of the most important cities historically. This is where China started with Emperor Qin in 200 BC or so. This is where the Silk Road starts and ends. I've been intrigued about this area since my BFF and travel buddy Sandra highly recommended it and after seeing a fabulous exhibit of the silk road in Brussels, Belgium.

The Air China flight was uneventful except that they have a fabulous lounge and the service was impeccable. I flew over the mountains but once over the mountain we were in clouds so couldn't see much.

FIrst impression of Xi'an? Huge. Huge airport and big city. I don't know what I was thinking but there is over 3million people living here with a thriving agriculture, high tech and manufacturing industries. Susan, my guide greeted me at the airport and whisked me away to start the tour before checking into the hotel. Fortunately, traffic is nothing like Beijing so driving was enjoyable.

We were first to go to the wall surrounding the city. BUT something was going on so we decided to go to the Muslim district and the Mosque. Yes a mosque in China and it's one of the oldest. AFter all, Xi'an as I mentioned earlier is the beginning of the silk road. No one is exactly sure when it all started but most historians believe the Muslim community began to thrive in the 7th century. People including me tend to forget China for a very long time was very welcoming to immigrants and folks from all different religions.

The Muslim Quarter is fascinating. If I had time, I could spend a whole day there. Susan told me not to try the street food and I didn't but it looked delicious! If I had time I would have tried a few and if I got sick, would have time to recover. But since I'm flying today back to Beijing today, decided to not chance it.

We also went thru the central market in the Muslim quarter which leads to Great Mosque where the prayer rooms are facing Mecca. The Mosque is a fascinating blend of Chinese and Islamic infrastructure. It is a very peaceful, quiet and gentle place in the middle of the hubbub of the Muslim quarter. It reminds one that Islam is a religion of peace and yet again, some people abuse and misinterpret the teachings in the name of power and violence.

After the Mosque it was time to go out again to the hubbub and head to Defachang, an over 100 year old institution that specializes in dumpling. Xi'an is where wheat is grown so "rice" is not a traditional staple. So bread, noodles, dumplings are very popular traditional dishes. I have to say go for the experience, don't except dumplings that will "wow" you but given I don't eat pork, sheep, lamb, they were very accomodating in creating veggie heavy dumplings.

After an elegant sufficiency of food, time to attempt the city wall again. This time we went to the East section where there was no one. What a difference! The city wall was built in the 1200s by the Ming Dynasty and has recently been restored. Susan said the government is paying folks living inside the wall to move out so that the city inside the wall becomes more of a shopping city. Of course, they will leave the Mosque there.

After having the wall basically to ourselves, Susan took me to the Tangbo Art Museum which is really a showcase for art work done by students and professors from the local universities. Xi'an is also known for the artwork and music. Susan said the music director for the Olympics came from Xi'an. I got a great tour and lecture of the history of art created by the "farmers", the history of Chinese painting and calligraphy. After all, it all started here. I even had a hands on calligraphy class. AND of course, I did some damage and bought 2 paintings from the professors of the local universities.

Then it was time to call it a day where I checked into the fanciest Crowne Plaza I've ever been in where I got an upgrade to beautiful suite. Spent the evening, sorting through photos and reflecting so far on my short but culturally enriching trip.

Flew over the mountains

Pix from the Muslim Quarter: Kiwis on the left and cute local persimmons on the right. Kiwis came from China I found out!! And had to try those cute persimmons. very mushy and sweet.

Muslim specialty: Bread

Pomegranates, dates and walnuts were in season and everywhere

This tofu snack looked delish!

Kebab!

Steamed cake

Make nut brittle and candly

The Great Mosque

Koran

The Bell Tower which is near the dumpling place. In the old days the Bell rang at 6am so villagers can enter the city to sell their stuff and the drums (at the drum tower) were played in the evening to announce closing the city