Saturday September 19, 2009
Hong Kong and Shenzhen, China
32C and Humid
"Hi Missy, do you want a pedi/mani, No? Maybe a watch then? "is what I heard for about 6 hours straight while doing some major shopping at the Lowu Commercial City Shopping Complex in Shenzhen. What an experience!
Day 2 in Hong Kong was shopping time. But not in Hong Kong but in Shenzhen. I wanted to get some clothes made and my friend Edward who lives in Hong Kong recommended I go to Shenzhen as his wife goes there all the time and gets great things made. I also got a copy of Shop in Shenzhen by Ellen McNally to help me decide what to do. I am so glad Edward was able to give me guidance and that I read the book. Otherwise, it would have been an overwhelming experience. In this huge 5 story building called LoWu Commercial City are 1000s of shops. My primary goal was to get clothes made so prior to going I made photocopies of dresses, blouses and slacks that I wanted tailor made to me.
My day started early where I had a substantial breakfast of noodles, dim sum and fruit so that I would have the energy to do some serious shopping. I then stepped out side from the hotel around 900am, got some more cash at the Citibank, then headed to the East Tsim Sha Tsui station and took the metro one stop to Hung Hom station. From there I took the train that goes to the border town LoWu. I'm glad I spent the extra money to take first class because it was not crowded well at least not until Sheung Shui where tons of people from mainland China boarded as they were getting back home. It seemed that they did not care whether it was first class or not and just got in wherever they wished! Good thing it was only one stop to the LoWu as otherwise I would have gone crazy with the shouting and the cellphones ringing non-stop!
Hung Hom Station: Very Modern and Clean
If you go, make sure you take the train to LoWu
Inside the first class cabin
Once off the train the mad rush through customs and immigration begins. Going through customs in Hong Kong was easy and fortunately, entering China was easy too as there were only about 10 or so foreigners making the border crossing. It was easy but they do take your temperature before entering China!
Now entering the Chinese side of immigration
Once I was on the China side, I took extra caution with my belongings as people have told me that pickpockets are abound. I also did not bring my nice camera as the concierge of the hotel said that it will make me a target. However, since I got there around 1030am which is opening time, not many people were there and it was very easy to get to LoWu Commercial City as its right in front of the station. It actually is so big, that you don't think its the shopping center but it is.
Since getting clothes made was my priority, I immediately went to the 5th floor. Edward's wife Julia recommended Wandan so that is where I went. She is located inside the Fabric Market and is at stall #48. Seems Julia called her to let her know I was coming so she was waiting for me! I showed her the photos of the clothes I wanted to make and after discussion, she took me shopping for fabric. And thank god for Wandan as there is so much to choose from. I wanted stretch cotton for the slacks, so she first took me to a fabulous stall that had every color you can think of and of a variety of quality. I chose the highest quality fabric in dark brown and black and it only cost me about 20 USD! Then it was off to the silk charmeuse stall and a again a gorgeous selection. That was a bit more expensive and for 2 blouses, the material cost me about 40 USD. And finally we went to the silk jersey stall for the dresses and again, it was a bit more expensive but again about 50 USD for 2 dresses! I also wanted a Caroline Herrera suit copied and made but Wandan had a fabulous collection of wool crepe so just got that from her. She only charged me about 230 USD to get a wool crepe,silk lined Carolina Herrara suit copied, 2 Lafayette 148 silk charmeuse blouses copied, 2 Lafayette 148 slacks copied, and 2 Diane von Furstenberg dresses copied. She will have them delivered to my hotel on Monday so if I need any last minute alterations, I can go back and get them done quickly. One Lafayette 148 blouse is about 250 USD so I definitely got a bargain!
Wandan: She's having her second baby and it is due near next year's Chinese New Year!
Wandan's shop
The fabric market
After spending about 2 hours with Wandan, I then asked her if she knew of a good tea place as I wanted to get high quality Pu'ra tea. It is supposed to be very good for you, has no caffeine and was highly recommended by my auto-immune specialist doctor. Wandan had her friend take me to the place where they get the tea. I asked for the purest grade Pu'ra tea and from the back, the tea master brought a beautiful box that had the tea that has been aged for about 15 years. In Japan, that grade tea costs about 200 USD for 0.5 kilos. He was willing to sell it to me for about 80 USD per 0.5 kilos. I asked him if I could try it and though he hesitated, he made me a gorgeous cup of the tea. He went through the ritual of cleaning the tea leaves twice with hot water and then making the tea. It was the most fragrant Pu'ra tea I've ever had. I also liked the way they were serving it so asked if I could see some of the tea sets. Again from the back of the store, he brought a gorgeous set made from egg shell porcelain and hand painted. I've seen them in stores on Nathan Road in Hong Kong and they are all over 3000 Hong Kong dollars (430USD). After some major bargaining, I got 1.5 kilos of tea and the tea set for 400 USD. The tea alone would have been 600 USD in Tokyo!
The Tea Man making the precious aged Pu'ra tea
His shop
Then it was time to look for freshwater pearls. The Shop in Shenzhen book recommended stall #29 in the Jewelry Market. And I can say it was the best. The owner also carried Tahitian pearls but the prices were not that great. But I was able to get 4 gorgeous fresh water pearl necklaces and 3 earrings for about 70 USD.
Where I bought my pearls: AC Pearl No. 29
I then spent about another hour or so looking at some of the other stalls. I did not like the ready made clothes too much and some of the stuff was wild (fake iphones, raunchy lingerie, etc). I tried taking photos of the fake electronics but a scary looking guy started yelling at me so stopped doing that! I did find a nice leather bag which is a copy of a Jimmy Choo bag. The lady wanted 800 HK$ but I insisted on 500 HK$(70USD) and I won. It's a pretty nice bag and a good copy. We shall see how long it lasts.
It was then time to go back. I did think about getting a mani/pedi or pedi/mani as they call it in Shenzhen but the hygeine was way too questionable for me. The book "Shop in Shenzhen" recommends getting one done but bring your own alcohol to clean the instruments. It is still too scary for me but if you must, get a tetanus and hepatitus vaccine.
LoWu Commercial City can be overwhelming! But they accept HK$$. If using RMB, make sure you get it exchanged on the Hong Kong side cuz fake money is getting popular in Shenzhen.
They sell almost everything including raunchy underwear.
Outside LoWu Commercial City
The train station at the border
I then took the train back to Hong Kong where again many noisy mainland folks got into first class but then they all left at the next stop. The ride back was uneventful and I was back in my hotel around 6pm. Since I did not have lunch, decided to walk to Harbor City Ocean Center for an early dinner and a much needed drink. Everyone was out shopping. And unlike Japan, the stores were full of people! The views were fabulous but again the sky was hazy. The smog in Hong Kong is pretty bad. I have tentative plans to go to the Peak tomorrow morning. Hopefully the view will be good and the smog will go away.
He makes a good mojito
A fab Mojito
Star Ferry returning from Hong Kong Island: It was a smoggy day
Which made for a great sunset
As the evening turned dark, I walked back to the hotel, went to check out Chung King Hotels but found it a bit creepy inside, so went straight to the hotel to relax and wait for my BFF Susan to arrive from NYC!
Nathan Road, early evening
Inside the Chungking Mansions – where one can find a bed, money exchange, haircut, you name it. Was taking photos and 3 guys were giving me the eye. Didn't think it was a good thing to do so left.