Monday September 21, 2009
Hong Kong (Kowloon and Hong Kong Island)
30C – A Steam bath
Yesterday was shopping day and today was eating day. My BFF from NYC, Susan arrived late last night and we mapped out our eating tour for today. There are so many Hong Kong specialties and restaurants to try that we had trouble prioritizes and planning. Anyhow, after finishing a bottle of wine at the Sky Bar with a fab view of Kowloon, we hit the sack to prepare for a full day of eating.
Our day started early as Susan was a bit jet lagged, with a Starbucks coffee across the street at Seibu department store. Amazing that the Starbucks was open when Seibu was closed. Amazing because all the designer bags, cosmetics, etc was just out there on display and yet no one stole them. Security must be very good on Nathan Road, we just don’t see it.
We then took off to take the Star Ferry to the peak. Since it was a Sunday, the ferry was packed with Filipina ladies ready to spend their day off in Central. The Star Ferry was just how I remembered it but Kowloon has changed! Even Susan, who lived there just a few years ago was amazed at the change. Skyscrapers and new fancy malls everywhere. A shopper’s paradise!
On board the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island
Hong Kong Island: Central Pier
The main drag of Hong Kong Island and Financial Center
Landmark Mall: We could walk through air conditioned malls to get to our destination, well at least most of the way.
We walked to the tram station and took the famous tram to the peak. Once up the peak, we again were amazed how things have changed. A new pavilion has been built which houses more shops and restaurants with great views of the harbor. Our plan was to have a coffee or refreshment at the peak and just as we were about to go to Bubba Gumps from a drink, we saw a sign to a Chinese restaurant and decided to go there instead. It was a fancy restaurant called Tien Yi and since we agreed that we would focus on eating for the day, we decided to have just “two” dim sums to wet our appetite. They were also serving Pu’er tea and since we both were into detoxing, we had a huge pot of that to do with our first dim sum of the day. And the dim sum was delicious! Especially the hagow (shrimp dumpling). It definitely was the best hagow we’ve had. The views were magnificent and the service was wonderful.
The famous tram that was out of commission only twice: During WWII and 1966 during a major flood where the tracks were washed away.
View from the tram.
View from the Peak
Our dim sum at Tien Yi. The hagow was the best!
We had to get going as our official “dim sum” appointment was at 130pm at Island Tang’s and wanted to check out Central a bit. We took the tram back down and stopped at Shanghai Tangs which carries the most exquisite and unique household gifts and clothing. I love their bags and clothes but they are very expensive as a lot of it is made from silk and cashmere. I did buy some souvenirs including 2 gifts for myself – a picture frame and a jade bookmark.
It was approaching 130pm so we headed to Island Tang’s. For some reason, I thought it was going to be a noisy and very casual place but NO, it was elegant and gorgeous! The dining room was decorated in Art Deco style and the whole ambiance was “refined”. I let Susan do the ordering and we had another fabulous meal. We agreed that the fried turnip was the best dish of the day. Island Tang has only been open for about a year but has received rave reviews. I highly recommend it.
The gorgeous bar at Island Tang's
The ambiance of Island Tang's: I felt like I was walking into 1950s Hong Kong
The Fried Turnip: The Best!
Island Tang's version of the Hagow – had a bit more veggies.
Custard filled buns: Susan's favorite
Shanghai soup dumplings
Fried boneless chicken wings
Typical Tram in Central: Nicely decorated these days.
We were to head to the noodle place for wonton noodles next but Susan’s parents-in-law called and wanted to meet us for tea. So instead we went back to Kowloon via the MTR (the metro) to Jordan station, where we met them for tea at small coffee shop. Susan’s parents-in-law are fun and have a HUGE heart! While chatting I mentioned I wanted to go to Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin temple and Loretta’s (Susan’s mom in-law) eyes lit up and said she will take us there as she wants to go see the Fortune Teller. Of course, now I’m excited because I did want to go see the fortune teller but thought it would not work out due to me not speaking Cantonese but Loretta who is a professional interpreter offered to do the translation! What luck!
The entrance to the Wong Tai Sin Temple
So change of plans, where we decided to take a break from eating and go see the fortune teller. The place was big!! With lots of people burning incense and saying prayers. It is a Taoist temple. I don’t know much about it but Susan’s father in-law explained that it is the original religion of China and was prevalent until Buddhism was introduced 3000 years later. This particular temple was built in 1973 and dedicated to the god Wong Tai Sin, who is worshipped by business people, the sick, and those trying to avoid illness. It’s what of the busiest temples in Hong Kong Amazing and Colorful
Susan and in-laws riding the bus. From left to right: mother-in-law, father-in-law and Susan!
Loretta then told me to hurry as we have to go see the Fortune Teller. So off we went to a building where there were 2 stories filled with Fortune Teller booths! And everyone had a license! I had no idea that fortunetellers needed a license.
Loretta was a bit worried because, when we went to the booth where her fortuneteller was located was boarded up. But another guy told her that he moved. So we found him! I paid him a discounted rate of 300 HK$, gave him my birthday and time of birth, only to be told, I’ll be fine and have no worries. But he did tell me that my best years are to come 50-60 years old but I must rest. That is, get enough sleep or else, I could suffer a nerve related disease that is painful but curable. I also will always be running around (meaning not office bound) and that is best for me. He then started asking me how many relationships I have had in the past. At that point, the whole scene was like something from a comedy movie, because here we are sitting in tiny booth with Susan, her mother in law and father in law, telling the fortuneteller about my love life!!! So funny! He also said I need to live by the water which I am most comfortable with. He also told me another curious thing, that having cats and dogs near me is not good as they are fire so to balance it out I need to be surrounded by fish. Hmmm.. Anyhow, I’m looking forward to my next decade as it is supposed to a blast!
Susan also got her fortune told and basically she was told not to think too much and that we were opposites. So she spent the next 6 hours or so thinking about not thinking too much ☺)). Funny!
So much to see at Wong Tai Sin Temple
My fortuneteller
The colors were vibrant which are typical of a Taoist Temple
After getting our fortune told, it was time to say goodbye to Loretta and her husband and get back to our eating itinerary.
We were off to Lei Yue Mun,, a fish market that few tourists know about and where we choose our fish and the restaurant cooks it. It is a short channel that separates Hong Kong and Kowloon. The Kowloon side is famous for its seafood market. The channel is an important passage to the South China Sea. Loretta, took us to the station which was in East Kowloon. From there we were to take the bus but instead took a taxi, which dropped us in front of the market 5 minutes later. Wow, what a market. Susan has been there before with her foodie husband Ray so she knew exactly which fish market to go to pick our fish. We got some unexpected help from who we thought was a tour guide but ended up being a banker! He was able to get us a free bag of clams and a very good price on – one whole rock fish, 2 lobster size shrimp, one crab, and 2 huge scallops for about 60 USD. The fishmonger was so nice. If in Hong Kong a must visit. The name of the seafood store is Yat Loong Sea Food at 38 Hoi Pong Road. Then we went to the restaurant next door which surprisingly had a fab sauvignon blanc from Margaret Valley Australia for a bit over 20 USD and made us a delicious fish dinner. They also served us with some fresh Chinese broccoli sautéed in garlic. It was an AMAZING dinner.
The entrance to the Seafood Market at Lei Yue Mon
In addition to seafood, there were fruit and vegetable stands
The banker negotiating with the fishmonger. The banker has his arms around the fishmonger.
Our happy fishmonger weighing the fish
The Seafood restaurant that cooked our seafood
The cucumber dish that was so good and was on the house. They were crisp and gets dipped in a spicy sauce.
The roasted shrimp in garlic and chilies.
Sauteed Chinese brocolli with garlic
Roasted scallops wtih garlic and chilies
Clams sauteed in black bean sauce
Steamed rockfish – the best!
Steamed Crab
Our conscientious and best waiter!
We were to go to the night market but both of us were exhausted (Susan from trying to “not think to much”) that we took a cab home and called it a night.