Saturday November 26, 2011
Malibu, CA
Gorgeous Beach Weather
Hard to believe it's only been 6 days since I came back from my business trip to Tokyo and Hanoi. It was a good trip both for business and personal reasons.
This time in Tokyo, I stayed at the Royal Park Hotel next to the TCAT. I've only stayed there once as the hotel usually is always fully booked. It's very convenient to the IBM offices as it is only a 5 minute walk away. And it is located in the heart of Ningyo-cho. I've always wanted to explore the area but for some reason never did while living in Japan as I was always busy at work so stayed in the office. And to spend a weekend near my work location was not that appealing.
But as I had Sunday AM free and jetlagged to the max, I decided to get some fresh air and explore the neighborhood. I got a map from the concierge and he recommended I do the 2 hour Nihonbashi Shichifukujin (Seven Good Fortune Deities) walking tour. Armed with an English map, I set off finding the famous deities who have their own dedicated Shinto shrines and hoping that by visiting all seven, good fortune will be bestowed upon me.
The first stop was the Suitengu shrine where the deity Benzaiten "lives". The shrine is known for safe delivery of babies. I happened to go to the shrine during a festival for 3,4,5 year olds. And since it was a Sunday, many parents brought their newborns to be blessed.
Suitengu Shrine where a statue of Benzaiten is enshrined and was reportedly carved by a famous Japanese sculptor during the Kamakura period (1100s)
Benzaiten's "House"
Family getting their newborn blessed.
The next stop was the Chanoki Shrine which is dedicated to the deity Hoteison -god of luck, matchmaking and fertility. The name derives from the tea trees which grow thickly around the shrine. There have been no major fires within the town so it is also worshipeed as a fire prevention deity.
Chanoki Shrine: Small shrine but very nice.
As much of the Ningyo-cho area survied the bombings during WWII, one can find some old buildings while exploring the neighborhood.
The third stop was the Koami Shrine dedicated to Fukurokuji – god of longevity and virtue, and Benzaiten – god of learning and wealth. It was squeezed between two homes. But it is a long standing shrine that was first established in 1466! It also must be famous for coccoons as many coccoons with peoples fortunes were hanging from the trees.
Only in Japan, will one find a shrine in between two parking lots. This shrine is called the Takarada Ebisu shrine which is dedicated to Ebisujin – god of fishermen and prosperous business. The shrine houses the statue of the deity which was either carved by Unkei(1100s) or Jingoro Hidarai(1400s).
The next stop was the Suginomori shrine. It was first founded about 1000 years ago and worshipped as Edo Mitsumori ( three great forests of Edo). Ebisu, the god of bounty, is worshipped here. It must be an important shrine like Suitengu as the shrine has bigger grounds (albeit smaller than Suitengu)
On the way to the next shrine, I ran into the Jusaburo Doll Museum. It was opened in 1996 by Mr. Jusaburo who is a famous Japanese puppet maker. It's quite tiny but an amazing place. Once I walked in I felt like I was in a small atelier in Montmartre during the 1920s. Chanson music was playing which added alot to the ambience. I was not allowed to take any photos inside, but it is a must see when in the neighborhood. The master himself was there ( I believe he is in his 70s). He wore a kimono with a gold earring on his right ear. He told me he was born to a geisha and grew up with geishas and thus got inspired to create ornate dolls and puppets. It was definitely a highlight of the walk.
Jusaburo Doll Museum
The next stop was the Kasami Inari Shrine which is home to Jurojin, the deity of virtue, longevity and good luck. The shrine is also famous for chrysanthemums which were in full bloom. And finally, someone who was selling amulets. So I bought two amulets (one for me and the other for my sister). It's supposed to help us live a very prosperous and long life!
Lots of foxes in this shrine. They are supposedly messengers of the deities.
Suehiro Shrine was the next stop. Again, a tiny shrine squeezed in between homes. It is home to Bishamonten, the guardian of the world. We really need this deity to start taking over. Although a tiny shrine, there were a couple of interesting stone sculptures and it really is an oasis in middle of a busy street.
Another old house I found interesting during the walk.
And the last shrine I visited is the Matsushima shrine. It's pretty amazing because an apartment building is built around it. Again, only in Japan. It is home to Daikokujin, the god of harvest. There was even a store next to the shrine that sold some interesting trinkets, all made of rice, in honor of Daikokujin but unfortunately it was closed.
The walk took about 2.5 hours including the stop at the doll/puppet museum. I found the neighborhood to be so interesting that the next day due to jet lag ( I was up since 3am), I decided to walk along the Sumida River to check out the early AM scene.
Because it was early, there were only a few people walking – mainly joggers and dog walkers.
Early AM Sumida River
I did get a good view of the Tokyo Sky Tree which is the tallest tower in the world. It's main purpose is for digital broadcasting but I find it too be ugly. Tokyo Tower is still my favorite tower…
Instead of walking all the way to Asakusa along the Sumida River (after all, I have to work!), I turned into Hamacho Park which is a nice neighborhood park. The trees have not changed color yet but it must be gorgeous when the fall foliage reaches their peak.
The AM walk took me about 40 minutes with stops for photos.
And to close, let me tell you a little about the history of Ningyo-cho. Ningyo-cho got its name because a large number of ningyo (doll) craftsmen lived there during the Edo period. And it was during the Edo period that it flourished as a central commerce district. It was also the center for the arts where kabuki, Japanese puppet shows and theaters dominated the night life. As it was spared damage from the bombings of WWII, many visitors enjoy the area to discover old Tokyo and the arts. And one always buys ningyo-yaki (doll-shaped cake filled with bean jam) as gifts when visiting this area.
Ningyo-yaki
I highly recommend people explore this part of Tokyo – a part of the real Tokyo.
We stayed at this hotel during my first visit to Tokyo. There was a small market on alternate thursdays near the station. I didnt realise it was a market until I wondered to the concierge why some of the shops had disappeared during the week. I liked the shop that sold dentistry equipment!!! with other steel goods – knives, nail cutters etc. Nathan 2 yo would play in the playground just behind the hotel which was so convenient – as its not easy to find playgrounds in Tokyo. But we didnt do this walking tour of shrines. Its nice to revisit the area minus an air ticket!!
Thanks Janet.