A Day in Hanoi

 Sunday November 27, 2011

Malibu, California

80 degrees, Sunny, Dry and Windy

 

Beautiful day in Malibu today.  Unfortunately, I'm staying home nursing a cold that turned out to be a  sinus infection.  Spent over an hour driving around Malibu looking for a Neti pot (broke mine about a month ago) and can't find one!  The ayurvedic pharmacy will open tomorrow so hopefully they'll have one which will be a relief!

Anyhow, as I am homebound, I've loaded photos from a day tour of Hanoi I did with my manager last Saturday.  We had business meetings in Hanoi last week and since it was my manager's first time in Hanoi, I hired a guide to take us around.

It was my second time in Hanoi.  The first time was for vacation in November of 2007.  Fast forward to Nov of 2011 and wow! lots of changes!   First major impression was that there are ALOT more cars now than in 2007.   And the road from the airport to downtown Hanoi is all paved!   Also, where there were farms with water buffaloes roaming, now there are high rise apartments.   And the biggest shocker… shopping malls including highend shops like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and a real Apple store.   Everyone we met during our business meetings had an iphone and ipad (real ones).  iPhones are 900USD in Hanoi, but it's a status symbol.  Incredible!

But there were still some of old Hanoi left for which I was happy about.  We stayed at the Sheraton on West Lake which I recommend as you are away from the center of town.  It's a gorgeous and quiet neighborhood.  I wanted to stay at the new Intercontinental which is next door but the IBM rate was sold out. We were pleased, however,  with the resort like atmosphere of the Sheraton.  And we found out that real estate prices are sky rocketing in Hanoi and some homes on the lake go for over 10M$!!  It's quite fascinating to see the contrast. 

Few signs of the French occupation still left in Hanoi.  This street sign is typical French and the walls are old.  A rare sight in the high end West Lake area of Hanoi.

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West Lake Hanoi

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Chickens roaming outside the Sheraton resort

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A side street off West Lake.  In between expensive homes are shacks where people live.  BUT, because the Vietnamese have pride, the neighborhood is clean whether its the rich or poor areas.

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A "shack" where a family lives.  The white building behind the shack is the Intercontinental Hotel.

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Another view of the West Lake

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Locals living around West Lake playing early AM badmington.

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Because there were so many cars, traffic and navigating the streets was pretty challenging.  We had a driver takes us around for our business meetings and for our tour. 

To get to the hotel, one has to take the main street out of Hanoi and make a left turn at this make shift roundabout.  Pretty crazy when you have cars, bicycles, scooters zipping by you in all directions.

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I booked a one day tour with Trails of Indochina.  The same tour agency Sandra and I used when travelling through Cambodia and Laos.  I was very impressed with the agency then and they did not disappoint. Thao was our guide and she was fabulous!

Our first stop was to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum.  When I visited in 2007, Uncle Ho – as he is affectionately known by the Vietnamese – was going through "touch up" in Russia so could not go.  He wanted to be cremated  but the Communist partly at that time, wanted him embalmed and the "Soviet Union" built the mauseleum for the Vietnamese people.  Photos were not allowed and we also were not allowed to speak.  Many Vietnamese travel from all over to visit and see Uncle Ho. I found it to be surreal seeing him embalmed.  I also was suprised to see how tall he is (supposedly over 170cm).

The Mausoleum built by the Soviets

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The Grounds

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Vietnamese tourists dressed in the traditional outfits for the visit to see Uncle Ho

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We then went to visit Uncle Ho's home.  If you don't know about him, you must read about him and the history of Vietnam.  This is a country that defeated the French, Americans and Chinese with very little resources except for the will of the people.  Their constitution is based on America's and one can't help but think what would have happened if America decided to not side with the French during the Indochine War.   I highly recommend the Pulitzer Prize winning book, Vietnam: A History by Stanley Karnow.

Ho Chi Minh's house:  Very simple.  Just two rooms but I beautiful view.

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Ho Chi Minh's secretary's home.  Just two rooms but also access to a bunker.

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The view that Ho Chi Minh had from his house.

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Grapefruit trees dot the grounds.

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Our next stop was the One Pillar Pagoda.  A Pagoda that is in a middle of a pond and stands on one pillar.  It was built in 1049 but the French destroyed it during the Indochine War.  It was rebuilt.  It is said that the King that time who did not have any children, dreamt about the Goddess of Compassion.  He then fell in love with a local girl who gave birth to the heir.  To show his gratitude, the King built this Pagoda for the Goddess of Compassion.  As you can see from the photo, way to crowded with tourists!

The One Pillar Pagoda.

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An elderly Vietnamese man at the One Pillar Pagoda.

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People lighting incense before vising the pagoda.

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Next was the Temple of Literature, which is where Vietnam's first university was established.  Today it is mainly a Buddhist temple.  It was found in the 1000s where education based on Confucious' philosophies were taught.  We happened to be there during "Teacher's Day" so many Vietnamese college students were on the grounds all dressed up to get their photos taken.

Paper offerings of things relatives want to give to folks that have passed away.  (fake money, homes, food, etc).  The monks burn them on auspicious days to send the offerings to the dead.

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One of the temples in the Temple of Literature.

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Vietnamese students getting their photos taken on "Teacher's Day"

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One of the guards at Temple of Literature.

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Altar to Confucious and his disciples.

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I believe this is the altar to the founder of the temple

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A very old Banyan tree on the grounds

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It was then time for lunch.  Thao made us reservations at Wild Orchid, probably the most beautiful restaurant in Hanoi.  I had a delicious banana blossom salad for lunch.

We ran into this cute boy inside the restaurant.

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The Wild Orchid Restaurant

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which is across the street from Hollywood! :))

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My manager wanted to look at the helmets the people wear while riding their motorbikes.  They are similar to baseball helmets and come in many designs.  While he was looking at them, I took photos of the traffic….

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The lady all covered up is wearing a special coat to protect her against sunlight.  Vietnamese ladies like many ladies in Asia do not like to get a tan.

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A monk on a scooter. 

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I didn't get a good shot, but there are two adults and 3 kids on the bike.  The woman is carrying a baby who was asleep (and she was pregnant).

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Thao then dropped us off so we could take a tour of the French Quarter in a cyclo.  When I was there in 2007, cyclo's were everywhere but now they are only allowed to ride in certain areas because it can get dangerous with all the cars, etc.

Here we are, about to go on a cyclo tour! A cyclo is a bicycle with a carriage in front. 

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We went by the Opera House

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And by the Metropole Hotel where lots of wedding photos were being shot.

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We went by a typical cafe, where beautiful birds were kept in cages.  I found out that the Vietnamese love birds and some men bring their birds to the cafe to "show off" how beautiful his bird sings.

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Our cyclo "drivers"

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Our last tourist spot was to go see a water puppet show.  Water Puppets originated in the deltas of the Red River in Northern Vietnam during the 11th century.  It's quite fascinating.  It's Vietnam's unique take on the ancient art of puppets.   The puppets are made of wood and lacquered.  Quite entertaining!

Water Puppets

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For the finale, the puppeteers appear from behind the screen.

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Our last stop was Hang Gai street, known for silk shops, art galleries, etc.  It's located in the old French Quarter so quite crazy and intense.  I believe my manager though enjoyed it as it's a shopping experience that does not exist anywhere else in the world.

Hang Gai, shopping street.

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Although there is a KFC, no McDonalds or Starbucks could be found.

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I was amazed at the electrical wiring system in Hanoi, the first time I came in 2007.  Although I hear the city government is working on putting the wires underground, it still scares me to see this while shopping.
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We got back to our hotel around 630pm grimy from the soot and dirt but had a great time.  We had our last dinner at Bobby Chin's which is close to the hotel and had our first taxi experience (it cost less than a dollar by the way).  I took a hot shower and crashed that night and the next day we were flying back home to California. 

I loved Vietnam in 2007 and love it more now.  It's a fascinating country.  I hope to visit again and this time visit Hue and Hoi An.  Anyone interested?

Me, by the largest drum in Vietnam.  Temple of Literature

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